Bags of class - why do women love handbags so much? What sacrifices would you have to make to afford Miu Miu's gorgeous Coffer bag - all butter- soft leather, ruches and gold hardware, and a hefty ? If you ate beans on toast for a month, could you stretch to ?
The It- Bag is the ultimate 2. Scroll down for more. These days we're prepared to spend more on a handbag than a holiday or even a car - and we want the rest of the world to know it. Clothes on the catwalk regularly take second place to this most covetable of accessories - a trend borne out earlier this year when Kate Moss starred in Longchamp's bag campaign, lying naked on a beach, except for her Longchamp handbag.
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The message was clear: clothes are redundant - it's all about the It- Bag. But why do we find bags so desirable? It's partly because they've become a unique outward statement of a woman's status, fashion savvy and earning power - and the rising popularity of handbags over the past 1. Two hundred years ago, a woman's role was largely domestic and she would keep her belongings in a purse tucked into the folds of her clothes.
But as women started leaving the home, both for leisure and work, bags became a useful way of carrying their possessions. Rail and sea travel caused an explosion in the popularity of fashionable luggage such as suitcases, dressing cases, hat and shoe boxes - out of which the modern leather handbag developed. It's no accident that many of today's most luxurious handbag design houses, such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada and Hermes, originated in the late 1. Then, as women gained financial independence, so the handbag industry flourished out of all proportion to its humble origins.
Now a big luxury conglomerate such as LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) makes millions of pounds a year from handbag sales alone. But the way the right bag can make us feel goes far deeper than just being a way of carrying things around. Both revealing and concealing, it also represents something deeply private to its owner. This stems largely from the fact that the handbag was originally developed from a silk purse or pocket worn next to the skin for safety.
In times gone by pockets were classed almost as items of underwear - secret places hidden under sumptuous material and reached by a slit in the skirt. These almost risque; connotations remained when the first prototype handbags were developed in the late 1. Empire- line dresses.
At the time, the idea of a woman parading her personal belongings in a visible pocket was as shocking to many as if she had taken her knickers off and waved them in the air - and, as a result, reticules were dubbed . These days, although they no longer have a racy reputation, they have lost none of their sex appeal and this is probably because the bag remains an accessory that is still very closely associated with all of our most intimate possessions. A bag contains our survival kit for daily life in the urban jungle - from mobile phone, tampons, make- up, money and keys, to hair straighteners, laptops, Blackberries, chewing gum, condoms or a change of clothes.
As a result, its mystique remains intact: many men find the complexities of what women carry in a handbag thrillingly obscure and would never dare to invade its privacy. Most women would feel naked without their handbags. And, as clothes become ever more streamlined and minimalist, it is in your choice of bag that you can make sure you stand out from the crowd.
It's a trend which has fuelled the incredible growth of the handbag industry in the past decade. By 2. 00. 6, one report showed that sales of bags were growing at twice the rate of clothes. But with so many designer bags vying for our attention, what does it take to lift a handbag to authentic 'It' status? The most obvious attribute is a striking design. An It- Bag needs to be instantly recognisable - whether it's the distinctive quilting and gold chains of the Chanel 2. Fendi Baguette or the Chloe Paddington bag with its oversized padlock. Another vital element for an It- Bag, of course, is glamour.
Often this comes from the magical association between a brand and a celebrity - such as the famous Hermes Kelly bag. First produced in 1.
Princess Grace of Monaco was famously photographed for the cover of Time magazine trying to shield her pregnant belly with a classic Hermes bag. The bag in question thereafter became known as the Kelly in her honour, and shot to global bestseller status, where it remains today. Fashion commentators at the time were quite clear about the association of bag and star: carrying a Kelly bag screamed class and old money, both then thought to be highly desirable. Then there was the Lady Dior of 1.
Princess Diana took to sporting it around town after she separated from Prince Charles. A seductive combination of briefcase and luxury, with its distinctive gold charms, it proclaimed its bearer as a serious woman who was nonetheless glamorous and sophisticated. More recently, an appearance on the arm of a style icon like Kate Moss can give a cutting edge to any modern bag - and Mulberry, Balenciaga and Stella Mc. Cartney have all benefited from the kudos in recent years.
Clever marketing inevitably also plays a vital role in creating a must- have. While Kate Moss may always be able to get her hands on the latest luxury bag, for the woman in the street it's much more of a challenge, regardless of money. Being unavailable is vital - with waiting lists for a high- status bag such as the Hermes Birkin stretching up to three years. Women's natural competitiveness is, of course, cleverly managed by the top bag designers. In 2. 00. 5, Alexander Mc.
Queen stirred up customer demand to fever pitch when he announced the launch of his new bag, the Novak, named after Kim Novak, the legendary blonde actress who starred in Alfred Hitchcock's 1. Vertigo. After it was announced that the bag was a limited edition with only 2.
In fact, as manufacturers have been quick to observe, ever- increasing price tags seem merely to add lustre to an It- Bag's allure, and even seasoned observers are sometimes astonished at our seemingly endless willingness to splash out on designer bags. Stuart Vevers, arguably the most successful bag designer of the past decade who has created a number of It- Bags for Mulberry, Bottega Veneta, Louis Vuitton and Givenchy, remarked recently: . I remember when handbags were . Now they're well over . What all of these share are clear, clean lines - nothing fussy or over- designed - and a combination of functionality and luxury, whether it's the soft quilting of the 2. Kelly or the finest leather of the Roxanne.
An iconic bag owes its status not to canny marketing strategies, but to the finest traditions of pedigree, quality and craftsmanship to look as good decades later as it did the day it was first worn. And, for a true bag- lover, that is almost beyond price. Extracted by Judith Keeling.